$$$ - Mediterranean - Old Town
Domaldova ul. 8, 21000, Split, Croatia
THE SPACE
Entrance is on the Riva (main walkway by the harbour) at number 23 on the palace side. It’s between Slastičarna Riva ice cream shop on the west side and That’s All Woks on the east. Head up the stairs along the Palace wall.
THE VISIT
I got there at 7:20pm (by myself) on a Wednesday evening without a reservation. The staff are generally somewhat reluctant to seat you but as I went on up through the lower inside dining area and up the stairs to the balcony, I was the only person there.
I had already had dinner and was there to get a drink, dessert, and to enjoy the beautiful view. Once seated, I was glad I’d made the effort. The whole city of Split emerged out of and is so integrated into the ruins of Diocletian’s palace but I was now sitting on a terrace actually on its outer walls. The view is also unbeatable: high up above the Riva with a view over the harbor, palm trees and the many tourists walking below in the evening sunshine.
I had been told that Croatia was known for its wine so I wanted to try some. Looking over the menu, there were lots of different appealing options that it was hard to choose. I decided to try the Galic Sauvignon which is a white wine from the Slavonia region to the Northeast of Croatia. It has an acidic start and a soft finish with aromas of elderberry, gooseberry, melon, peppers, lemongrass, and asparagus - I really enjoyed it.
I also ordered a dessert. All four sounded great but I decided to get the Lime Cheesecake which was delicious. It has a crunchy base with cranberries baked in, creamy cheese with lime and white chocolate, lemon juice and caramelized lime on top. It had a good balance of sweet with a bit of sour to cut through the sweetness and the texture was delicious. I would have taken my time to savor my dessert and to extend my stay on the terrace regardless but it was so good that I wanted to enjoy it for as long as possible.
WINNERS
Wine: They have a large variety of wines and mine was delicious. Also, for $6.23/€5.65, the prices weren't too bad considering the location.
Cheesecake: It was really yummy and I loved the sweet/sour combination.
Location: There's really nothing like it in Split; both history buffs and Instagram enthusiasts will love being able to dine/drink in Diocletian's palace with a great view.
COULD BE BETTER
Visitor Experience: While (perhaps superficially) adding to the exclusivity, Zoi isn't always easy to access. For starters, it's quite difficult to find as the entrance is hidden without a clear indication of its existence at street-level. Secondly, you have to reserve by either phone or email (unclear how accessible this is) and if you don't reserve, they might be reluctant to seat you. This didn't detract from my overall experience while at ZOI but I can see how it might turn people away/bring in fewer guests - I was debating not going but it worked out time-wise and I did not go for dinner. However, they seem to be doing well enough so I can imagine that ease of access wouldn't be a top priority for them, while it does seem like something that could be pretty easily changed.
FINAL VERDICT
It really is a unique experience in Split and I really enjoyed my dessert/drink. It’s not the easiest but I would say it’s worth the effort. While accessibility and service upon entry could be better, the two waiters who brought my wine/cake were very friendly and provided great service. The space was both aesthetic and comfortable, including the inside area and even the bathrooms (a for me often used indicator of restaurant quality).
I’m curious what the dinner food is like and I’d come back again just for the view!
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